As I sat down to write this review of a trip to the Hampshire and Berkshire countryside visiting two of the Epicurean Collection of gourmet inns, one question was nagging away at me.

Had my jeans shrunk in the past two days ­or was the chocolate fondant pudding with ice cream the straw that broke the camel’s back?

The answer was simple – change into stretchy yoga trousers. So now I’m sitting comfortably, let me begin. The Epicurean Collection of inns brings together pubs providing the best of farm-fresh seasonal food, celebrating the British countryside. We visited the Yew Tree in Highclere, near the castle where Downton Abbey is filmed, and the Crab and Boar in Chieveley, near Newbury.

Imagine staying in a country house, with leather sofas, log fires, maybe a Labrador or two… that’s the cosy atmosphere these pubs create. Both offer B&B – as well as the full English, the Yew Tree offers choices including eggs Benedict or Florentine, while the Crab and Boar offers kippers and American pancakes. And if you’re going to indulge your epicurean side in a three-course dinner feast, this is a beautiful part of the country in which to work up an appetite.

Sadly for a Downton fan, I found Highclere Castle closed for the winter, but Newbury was lovely, with the Kennet and Avon Canal, interesting old buildings and churches, a museum and independent shops. Then there was Hungerford, with antique shops and canal views, followed by a walk by the Thames through picturesque Goring, and a trip to the Living Rainforest centre, near Chieveley. This is North Wessex Downs territory, so if a country walk is what you’re after, you’re spoilt for choice.

And after a country walk, a country pub. First stop was the 17th century Yew Tree, full of nooks and crannies, with the trunk of a tree extending up through the middle of the building, beams, flagstones, low ceilings, open fires, candlelight – a bit like stumbling into the pages of a Country Life feature.

Not that it’s ever been a problem I’ve had to wrestle with, but if you want to arrive by helicopter they can even accommodate that. They also have dog-friendly rooms.

The food was exceptional, right down to the bread which was so good I asked where they got it – they bake their own daily. Severn and Wye smoked salmon, trout, tender venison with red cabbage, perfect halibut – it was fine dining. And while I probably consumed the average annual chocolate intake for a small country in the dark chocolate fondant pudding, it was just too good to worry about calories. Running the team in the kitchen is Simon Davis, whose experience in Michelin-starred kitchens shines through.

The Yew Tree is on a fairly busy road – traffic noise didn’t stop me getting a good night’s sleep, but for light sleepers they do provide earplugs.

Second stop was the Crab and Boar in Chieveley, with lovely views across the countryside. Again the mood is country house; our luxury suite was generous but still felt cosy, with armchairs, huge comfy bed, fur rug – and a super-stylish bathroom with rainfall shower and separate deep tub. Some rooms have private hot tubs.

As we sat down to dinner watched by the beady eye of a large boar’s head on the wall, the talk at the next table was an animated discussion of the advantages of showjumping over eventing. It’s that sort of place.

As you might deduce from its name, shellfish and game feature on the menu. The food was superb – crab tortellini, fallow deer tartare, roasted partridge with chestnuts, tandoori marinated monkfish with cumin potatoes, sticky toffee soufflé and apple and blackberry parfait… Epicurus himself would have been impressed.

He may not have had yoga pants – but I bet that toga was pretty roomy.

FACTFILE

The Yew Tree, Hollington Cross, Andover Road, Highclere, near Newbury, Hampshire RG20 9SE: For reservations and inquiries call 01635 253360; email info@theyewtree.co.uk; website www.theyewtree.co.uk
The Yew Tree has eight double rooms; rates from £95 including breakfast.
The Crab and Boar, Wantage Road, Chieveley, Berkshire RG20 8UE. Call 01635 247550; email info@crabandboar.com; website www.crabandboar.com
The Crab and Boar has 14 rooms; rates from £110 including breakfast.
More info at www.epicureantimes.com