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Gibraltar's Sunborn Hotel with a five-star berth at the base of the famous Rock

The Rock of Gibraltar from it's southern tip at Europa Point
The Rock of Gibraltar from it's southern tip at Europa Point

‘Welcome aboard sir’, said the receptionist as I checked-in to the Sunborn Gibraltar. An unusual greeting from a hotel receptionist you may think, but if you bear in mind this hotel is a super yacht moored permanently at the base of the Rock, it’s perfectly appropriate.

The Sunborn is a cross between a cruise ship and a five-star hotel, complete with ballroom, restaurants, bars, a casino and 189 generously-sized luxury rooms over six floors. Or should I say decks?.

I questioned the reason for a floating hotel, but it makes total sense in Gibraltar, measuring three square miles with a population of 30,000 people plus many thousands of tourists, space is at an absolute premium.

I’ve been on a couple of cruises and, while I love being on a ship, I struggle with the feeling of being . . . well, all at sea, I suppose. I just can’t keep still for too long and after a day or so, I yearn for the freedom of terra firma. For me there’s nothing more unsettling than being out of sight of land for any amount of time.

The roomy and light cabins of the Sunborn Gibraltar
The roomy and light cabins of the Sunborn Gibraltar

So, being on board a ship which doesn’t leave port, but enjoys the delights, luxuries and feel of a cruise liner is for me a perfect combination. Despite not actually going to sea, somehow the Sunborn manages to create the same friendly, personal atmosphere you would receive on a top cruise ship. Everyone from the concierge to the cleaner is friendly and outgoing with none of the cold reserve you can often ind in five star hotels.

Obviously you don’t experience the excitement of landfall in different countries, but with the history and culture of Gibraltar right on the doorstep, you won’t feel you’ve been cheated. And, if you’re as lucky me, you may even enjoy the delightful company of a former Miss Gibraltar and manager of the tourist board Gail Francis-Tiron, as your personal guide.

The Rock itself is easily enough to keep a visitor intrigued with tours of the exterior and indeed, the interior. Playing a key role in British history since 1704, it has been vigorously mined to create gun placements, underground barracks even hospitals throughout its core – the saying, ‘solid as a rock’ is perhaps a little overstated if referring it to the one in Gibraltar.

The stunning St Michael's cave in the Rock
The stunning St Michael's cave in the Rock

There is also the stunning St Michael’s cave and the infamous ‘apes’ (Barbary macaques, in fact) which appear to be posing patiently for tourists' cameras, but are, in fact, deviously looking for the slightest opportunity to steal their food.

Apart from the Rock there is the botanical gardens and plentiful bars and restaurants in Ocean Village Marina and, just minutes away in the old town, there are pubs, more places to eat and, of course, VAT-free shopping.

For sun worshipers there is a good-sized beach and peaceful coves, all within easy reach by bus or cab.

If, meanwhile you feel the urge to make landfall on some exotic coastline, Spain is just over the border or you can fly from Gibraltar airport to Tangiers, a mere 20 minutes away, on a day trip and return to your shore-based ship hotel.

The Language: Being a British territory for 380 years, the mother tongue of Gibraltar is English, but being on the edge of Spain, Gibraltarians also speak Spanish and leap from one language to the other in the same sentence – a dialect referred to as Llanito (pron Yanito) – a cab driver told me it was Gib-berish, I didn’t argue with him.

How to get there: Gibraltar has its own airport on the British side of the border and airlines Monarch, EasyJet and British Airways fly into Gibraltar airport daily from most London airports and more recently Bristol. Transfer time is a matter of minutes.

You can also fly into Malaga airport with most carriers, with a transfer time of around an hour and an half, which can take longer depending on how long it takes to cross the border from Spain.

Where to stay: Jeff was a guest of Sunborn Gibraltar. For more information on booking accommodation at the Sunborn go to www.sunbornhotels.com/gibraltar/ for more about Gibraltar go to www.visitgibraltar.gi

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