Home   Holidays   Article

Going gourmet outside of Paris in the Cote d'Opale

The coastline towards Wimereux along the Cote d'Opale in the Pas de Calais
The coastline towards Wimereux along the Cote d'Opale in the Pas de Calais

For many years I’ve driven the glorious, sweeping coastline between Calais and Boulogne and have often ventured inland in search of a cosy bed and breakfast in the beautiful countryside of the Cote d’Opale region.

But never have I thought of Channel hopping to the area in search of a fine dining experience or to spend a couple of nights in a chic hotel.

After all, if it’s gourmet cooking and chic you’re after in France, surely the only place to go is Paris...isn’t it?

Well, no. In fact, all you need to do is take a P&O ferry armed with a list of restaurants from the association of Cote d’Opale Gourmande and take your pick. Proud of their cuisine and recognised by various food guides, 16 chefs and food professionals joined forces to promote the image of the Cote d’Opale region through its gastronomy.

L'Atlantic Hotel in Wimereux
L'Atlantic Hotel in Wimereux

Their association comprises 18 hotels, restaurants and local producers between Calais in the north and Le Touquet in the south, each using local produce and fish to create wonderful taste experiences, while promoting the use of seasonal food.

I stayed at the chic and comfortable L’Atlantic in Wimereux as a guest of the Delpierre family who own the hotel, beach bar and the fine dining restaurant La Liegeoise.

Alain Delpierre runs the kitchen with his son Benjamin producing a gourmet experience with a la carte, set menus and a tasting menu all maintaining the Cote d’Opale Gourmande ethos of using only seasonal and local produce and presenting it to the same high standards you’d expect to find 166 miles further down the road in Paris.

It’s not just fine dining and hotels which are promoted by the association. Also included in the group is a chocolatier, cheesemaker, wine and spirits merchant and, my particular favourite, a brewer of remarkable beer.

Christophe Noyon produces a wonderful selection of beers, from a light white through to a treacle black beer all made from wheat and barley grown on the family farm in Tardinghen. I never thought it possible, but the quality of Mr Noyon’s beer has actually swayed me and my tastebuds from the classic Belgian beers I once thought were unbeatable.

The Cote d’Opale has always been a draw for visitors seeking glorious beaches like those of Wissant and Wimereux, and enjoying the beautiful landscapes and fascinating culture, but with excellent dining experiences within an hour of Calais, it gives you more time to explore this fascinating part of France.

. . .and so to the greens

As well as celebrating the superb cuisine of the area my trip included taking part in the Cote D'Opale Gourmande golf competition and I was surprised to say the least that I would be taking part on behalf of my countrymen and women. After all, competing in sport for your country is something very few achieve and, in my case, I accept I have neither the ability or determination to consider such an honour.

The coastline from Cap Blanc Nez and the monument sweeps it way towards Wimereux and beyond
The coastline from Cap Blanc Nez and the monument sweeps it way towards Wimereux and beyond

So, on a foggy morning French and Dutch golfers lined up at Hardelot Golf Association’s Les Dunes course, a 45-minute drive from Calais, against a Great Britain and Ireland team and hit their tee shots into a curtain of mist for the honour and glory of their respective countries.

I was in the penultimate pairing with the sole Ireland representative who unknowingly was going to have his patience and compassion severely tested in the hours to come. Finally we arrived without injury at the 18th tee on this beautifully maintained, but testing golf course with the score surprisingly all square.

The elevated tee gave a spectacular view of the fairway and, with heart in mouth, I hit my drive. It was straight and reasonably long (one of just a few that day) while my partner, brilliant throughout, hooked his ball deep into the trees. Eventually reappearing from the undergrowth he approached me with a rueful smile and a rather too solid pat on my back said ‘time for you to shine partner’.

A nervous chip fell short to leave me a long birdie putt. I hit it short and even missed an easy tap-in for par and victory. Still my partner smiled a rather scary smile – it was one of those which seemed to reveal far too many teeth for my liking. Fortunately our French opponents fluffed their putts to give us the match, which happily turned my partner’s half smile into a full one and he was as delighted as I was relieved.

Luckily the strain of this high-pressure environment didn’t detract from my enjoyment of this lovely and tough course.

The following day we played without the competition and a little more inland at the more formidable Golf de Saint-Omer, which annually hosts one of the tournaments of the European Tour.

From my perspective as a medium handicapper, I found it far less rewarding than Les Dunes and spent most of my time recovering from clambering up and down the, sometimes, ridiculously precipitous ski-slope fairways. If you enjoy a course which rewards the really long hitter this is the one for you. But regardless of how long you hit, I suggest you spend some extra cash and rent a buggy. It will be money well spent because you will need every ounce of strength you can muster if you want to tame this particular tough old beast.

Details

Jeff travelled courtesy of Pas De Calais Tourisme (www.uk.pas-de-calais.com) and Golf en Côte D’Opale (www.uk.golfencotedopale.com)

For details of all the members of the Cote d’Opale Gourmonde visitwww.cotedopalegourmande.com
For more about playing golf at Hardelot see www.hardelotgolf.com and for St Omer golf go to www.golfsaintomer.fr/
Accommodation at L’Atlantic in Wimereux starts at 140 Euros. Visitwww.atlantic-delpierre.com for details. To find out more about Cote d’Opale go to www.cote-dopale.com
Short break P&O ferry crossings from Dover to Calais start at £39, for a car with up to nine people. For times and bookings visit www.poferries.com

Close This site uses cookies. By continuing to browse the site you are agreeing to our use of cookies.Learn More