No shortage of bubbly in Champagne-Ardenne
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by Norman Smith
After the First World War, in order to stave off future
invasion, France built a formidable line of defences along the
border with Germany.
But in May 1940, the inconsiderate Germans stormed through
Belgium and simply went round the top of the Maginot Line, cutting
a swathe through the French forces and precipitating the Allied
retreat to Dunkirk.
They didn't even bother tackling the Maginot line from the rear
since most of its armaments were pointing in the other direction.
Only the end fortification at Villy-La-Ferte, near the town of
Sedan, had been attacked and all its defenders died in the
underground chambers.
Much of the fort, with only its gun turrets above
ground, is intact and you can climb down to get a glimpse of what
it must have been like in the operations chambers and living
quarters of the submarine-like innards of its defences.
The whole area around Sedan and, indeed, much of
Champagne-Ardenne, has been marked by invasion and conflict over
hundreds of years. It's a vast area steeped in history and culture
and while you can reflect on relics of war, you can also savour
flavours of peace and tranquillity. After all, this is the land of
world-famous wine, gastronomy - and scenic splendour.
The region consists of four departments: Ardennes, Marne, Aube
and Haute-Marne, each with its own appeal, rich heritage and
natural beauty. There is so much to see and explore in
Champagne-Ardenne that one visit is not enough, something easily
remedied by the fact it is only a three-hour drive from Calais.
Having been fought over in 1940, the Ardennes saw more conflict
with the Germans in 1944, but that was the beginning of the end and
Germany's unconditional surrender was signed in May 1945, in a
former school in the beautiful city of Reims, where General
Eisenhower had set up Allied headquarters. In what is now a museum,
the room where the signing took place has been carefully preserved
and the memorabilia includes film of the actual ceremony. It's an
absorbing piece of history, as is the magnificent cathedral, which
when illuminated at night is awe-inspiring.
There's so much to see (www.reims-tourisme.com) that
you will need refreshment. Sample some of the finest
champagne and explore the cellars at Champagne Taittinger,
just one of the many renowned producers (www.taittinger.com).
Almost alongside the cathedral, le Cafe du Palais is a virtual
work of Art Deco and the food is pretty good too. Try the
traditionally cooked ham, perhaps washed down by a glass or two
from a wide range of bubbly. It's bistro-style cuisine, as can also
be found in the city's excellent Brasserie Flo.
Like the range of eateries, there is no shortage of places to
stay in Reims and we opted for the Hotel de La Paix, a modern Best
Western with all the amenities and comforts you would expect from
an international establishment (www.bestwestern-lapaix-reims.com).
It was a contrast in style from our previous night's
stay in the hotel at the Chateau Fort of Sedan, a three star hotel
seemingly built into the largest medieval fort in Europe
(www.hotelfp-sedan.com).
One of the highlights in Champagne-Ardenne must be a visit to
the pretty village of Colombey-les-Deux-Eglise in the countryside
of Haute-Marne. It was here, in a house called La Boisserie, that
Charles de Gaulle and his family found tranquillity and escape from
state affairs. It was also where he died and is buried and where a
fascinating memorial museum has been established near a massive
Cross of Lorraine.
The village also has a Michelin-star restaurant, Hostellerie La
Montagne and you could spend hours there too. Just relax and enjoy
the culinary artistry (www.hostellerielamontagne.com).
We spent the night and enjoyed generous helpings of traditional
fare not far away at La Grange du Relais (www.lagrangedurelais.fr). It
has rural comfort and charm, with a warm welcome.
As to be expected in this part of France, there are Champagne
tourist routes to explore, about 300 miles of them in the Aube and
Marne.
Some growers and producers, such as the family-run Champagne
Drappier, offer their own tours and tasting visits, but it is
advisable to check in advance.
Wednesday, June 02 2010
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