Beaches so good you wonder why anyone holidays abroad
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by Danny Boyle
The narrow country lane was barely wide enough for one car and
so winding there was no way of telling if we were about to have a
head-on crash.
The drive to the tiny Cornish harbour village of Portloe is not
for the faint-hearted, but I was just about managing - until I
was confronted by Mr Vauxhall who seemed to want to defy the laws
of physics by forcing his way through a gap the size of a postage
stamp.
Fortunately, I was driving a bigger car and Mr Vauxhall backed
off, hurling something about the Highway Code in my direction.
After a hellish journey, Portloe was the perfect place to relax.
There's little else to do in this picturesque cove, which offers
the escape of having no mobile signal. We stayed at The Lugger,
right on the harbour.
Surrounded by headlands forming part of the Cornish Coastal
Footpath on the Roseland Peninsula, the hotel is just steps away
from some dramatic clifftop walks.
The 17th century inn is reputed to have been the haunt of local
smugglers, with one of its landlords - Black Dunstan -
hanged in the 1890s. Its liquor licence was withdrawn and the inn
ceased trading.
The Lugger, which thankfully has a licence again after reopening
as a hotel in 1950, is now a destination for famous faces.
Prime Minister David Cameron stayed last year, Morrissey
celebrated his birthday there a few years ago and other famous
guests include Dawn French, Catherine Tate and Will Young.
The restaurant is certainly up to serving star names, with sea
views to die for and food to match.
Attentive and knowledgeable staff talk guests through the menu,
which has an emphasis on locally-sourced produce.
The high level of service extends to the rooms, where we found
hot chocolate and the next day's weather forecast when we returned
from dinner.
The weather is one thing you cannot guarantee on a British
holiday, but Cornwall always manages to feel slightly balmier than
the rest of the country.
Even if it does rain, the spectacular Eden Project and the Lost
Gardens of Heligan are nearby.
But when the sun shines on Cornwall, there's nothing better than
wondering among fishermen in a busy harbour, ordering a cream team
in a tranquil village or soaking up the culture in St Ives.
Cornwall has more sandy beaches and rugged coastline than almost
anywhere else in Britain.
When you visit the magnificent golden beaches, such as
Porthcurno, you'll wonder why anyone holidays abroad.
Surfing is best on the north coast on a series of beaches
between Bude and Newquay. Among them is Mawgan Porth, the home of
luxurious eco-hotel The Scarlet (below).
Scarlet by name, green by nature - this is one of Britain's
few truly environmentally-friendly hotels.
This airy, multi-level building overlooking the bay has solar
panels to heat the indoor pool, a biomass boiler fuelled by local
wood chippings, as well as grass roofs, reed-bed filtration and
grey-water recycling.
An adults-only retreat, The Scarlet is the ultimate indulgence.
Despite wanting to explore the area, we just couldn't tear
ourselves away.
Relaxing diversions include log-fired hot tubs overlooking the
beach, a natural reed-bed swimming pool and a calming spa, which
has a deep relaxation space with hanging canvas pods that are far
too easy to fall asleep in.
After a hard day's relaxation, the sophisticated restaurant
feels like you've been transported to a city - until you look
out of the window.
It's the perfect place to watch the sunset while enjoying
delicious local food.
I don't think I've ever woken up to a better view than at The
Scarlet - the sliding balcony doors at the end of our bed had
spectacular views.
I can't wait for my return to Cornwall, but next time I might
let someone else do the driving.
Rooms at The Lugger Hotel start from £100, based on two people
sharing, including breakfast. Phone 01872 501322 or visit www.luggerhotel.com.
Rooms at The Scarlet start from £190 per room, based on two
people sharing, including breakfast. Phone 01637 861800 or visit
www.scarlethotel.co.uk.
Friday, November 04 2011
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