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Sunday, May 26 2013

Approaching Barentsburg

Approaching Barentsburg

The Russian mining community of Barentsburg is the second largest settlement on Svalbard, with about 300 inhabitants.

The first settlement came into being in 1912 but in 1932 it was sold to the Russians and is owned by the Russian State.

Barentsburg is run by Trust Arcticugol and is still a "company" town. As we walked up the one-and-only road our guide told us much about the buildings and that the the coal mines are still in production, albeit on a much smaller scale than originally. The coal is sold to other countries, not Russia, but mining could be escalated again should the need arise.

The miners do a two-year stint and then return to their home. Their young children are able to attend the local school but once they reach secondary age, they return to Russia to continue their education.

The chapel was built following a tragic plane crash in 1996 when 141 people were killed and the following year when 23 miners died in a mining accident.

Not only is there the usual bar and post office, but there is a hospital staffed by one doctor and a dentist who can treat most minor complaints. Anything serious is sent to Longyearben. The settlement has its own cultural centre, with performance hall, swimming pool and a gym. There is also hotel, a souvenir shop and a museum.

We were entertained at the cultural hall by a colourful folklore show performed by the residents. Unfortunately, towards the end the generator blew and the lights went out. Unperturbed the entertainers continued singing and encouraged the audience to join in until eventually lamps and torches were produced. They were given a rousing cheer by the audience who had to make their careful way out using the lights of mobile phones!

During the Second World War, the entire city was razed to the ground by the battleship Tirpitz, yet there is a sense of history about the place, with Lenin on top of the hill, overlooking his people.

A word of warning: Be careful where you walk because the ground can be very uneven due to the shifting permafrost, which similarly makes some of the wooden landings and steps a bit rickety. Above all do not go beyond the confines of the community because of the polar bear danger.

 

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