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Tuesday, June 18 2013

 Old St Boniface Church. Picture: courtesy of Wightlink

 

by Nikki White

We would have been hard pushed to pick a worse weekend to go away. The rain barely stopped, there were weather warnings all over the country – and where were we? On a ferry to the Isle of Wight.

When I was a kid, we used to go camping a lot. We had this bright orange tent which somehow dad managed to wrestle on to the roof rack, along with anything else he could strap down.

I remember sleeping bags and pillows being piled high on the back seat and, somehow, my brother and I clambering on top of them and trying to sleep on what seemed like an endless journey to our destination. Everywhere seems a long way from Kent.

We’d often go to Devon or Somerset, but one year set off for the Isle of Wight. It felt wonderfully adventurous getting a ferry over the water. We were almost abroad.

I loved it: Blackgang Chine with its model dinosaurs and pirate tales, the model village at Godshill and the coloured sand at Alum Bay. I filled bottle after bottle with that stuff, most of which ended up on my bedroom carpet after I dropped them when I got home.

This time was a more grown-up affair – a comfy B&B and walks (in between the downpours) to admire the scenery.

We were following the Wight Church Trail, a guide to Isle of Wight Churches and Religious Sites.

At first glance, it may not seem your cup of tea but you don’t have to be a regular churchgoer to appreciate what this route has to offer.

Churches are not just places of worship; they tell the history of a community, how it has grown, suffered and celebrated. They tell you as much about the people they provide comfort for today as they did hundreds of years ago.

Blandings B&B, Horringford. Picture courtesy of WightlinkWe stayed at Blandings B&B (pictured left) in Horringford, a comfortable room in a welcoming home (and make sure you save plenty of room for the belly-busting breakfast, complete with home made plum compote with cardamom).

Set up for the day, we started our tour at the nearby Church of St George, Arreton, well known for its beautiful interior – and its ghosts.

Blacksmith James Urry apparently tossed two visitors over his grave in 1983. He was nowhere to be seen while we were there, but there had been a wedding the day before and the place was filled with the most wonderful flowers.

It was these small things which added to our adventure.

Chapel of St Nicholas, Carisbrooke. Picture courtesy of WightlinkAt the beautiful Chapel of St Nicholas at Carisbrooke Castle (pictured right), we stopped to see the donkeys turning the well wheel; at All Saints’ in Godshill, we took in photographs taken at services over the years.

St Boniface Old Church, near Ventnor (pictured top), was one of our favourites. It’s only 48ft by 12ft, and you can hear the sea from the churchyard.

We arrived just as the sun was dropping and couldn’t find the light switch. We weren’t even sure there was one, and there were so many candles on window ledges, I suspect that’s how it was lit. If only we’d had a box of matches!

Other favourites included St Lawrence Parish Church (another tiny building but with a table of fresh water and squash for weary travellers) and St Agnes Thatched Church. Picture courtesy of WightlinkSt Agnes Thatched Church at Freshwater Bay (pictured left).

The trail takes you around the whole island and given more time, you could easily take in all the well-known tourist attractions too.

But we were glad to get off the beaten track, and see some of the hidden beauties the Isle of Wight has to offer.

We will be going back to complete the trail, and I really need to get my hands on some more of that coloured sand.

  • Nikki travelled to the Isle of Wight with Wightlink Green Getaways (Call 0871 376 0013 or visit www.wightlink.co.uk/greengetaways)
  • n A three-night stay (Fri-Mon) at Blandings B&B near Arreton costs from £117 per person (two sharing), including return Wightlink car ferry travel St Clare at Fishbourne. Picture courtesy of Wightlinkfrom Portsmouth or Lymington.
  • Nikki travelled on Wightlink’s 40-minute Portsmouth-Fishbourne crossing, one of three routes. Car ferries also operate between Lymington and Yarmouth (35 minutes) and there is a passenger catamaran service from Portsmouth Harbour to Ryde Pierhead (22 minutes).
  • Wightlink’s newest themed booklet extends the scope of its Wight History Trail guide to include some of the Isle of Wight’s most distinctive churches. The Wight Church Trail is an eight-page supplement to the revised 2012 edition of the Wight History Trail and features 14 of the island’s most interesting churches, chapels, abbeys and graveyards – each with a particular story to tell.
    The Wight Church Trail is available free by calling Wightlink on 0871 376 1000 or can be viewed/downloaded from the website at www.wightlink.co.uk/isle-of-wight-guide-and-events/attractions/wight-church-trail.

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