Northern Lights
Comments |
By Denise Eaton
MY grandmother was a particularly stern woman. A woman probably
typical of her generation; no nonsense, stoical, practical and
thrifty.
Yet this stony exterior would always crumble whenever my older
sister was present. Not so with me.
I was convinced it was because I was the complete opposite to my
sibling. She was tall, elegant, slim, blonde and beautiful, and
would always steal my grandmother’s attention and affection.
So during a rare weekend visit on my own at her remote Essex home,
I tried to win her approval by getting ready for bed without being
reminded (or, rather, scolded!). I appeared at the door all washed
and dressed eagerly anticipating praise. Instead my grandmother
uttered: “Oh, what a shame. I was going to take you to the
fairground you’d been admiring. Too late now.”
I scuttled off to bed vowing never to make the same mistake
again.
Which is why, some 35 years on, I slept practically fully clothed
in order to take full advantage of the 24-hour alert system
employed by MS Trollfjord on its Northern Lights voyage.
This was one spectacular carnival I was definitely not going to
miss.
Ever since, and perhaps because of my childhood experiences, I have
been fascinated by the night sky and no more so than the greatest
display on earth; aurora borealis, the elusive but electrifying
Northern Lights. I, along with hundreds of other passengers on
board Hurtigruten’s north-bound MS Trollfjord, spent night after
night craning my neck sky-bound to get a glimpse of this most
magical nocturnal display. Sightings can never be guaranteed, but
to me that’s part of the mystique.
We’d opted for Hurtigruten’s seven-day Voyage North, which runs
from October to March and visits 34 ports along the spine of
Norway’s scenic coast. Beginning in beautiful Bergen, the bustling
capital of Norway’s fjord district, it ends in Kirkenes in the
north, just a few kilometres from the Russian border and the Sami
communities of Northern Finland.
Flight times on day one should allow a few hours before embarking
to stroll around the UNESCO World Heritage site with its remaining
wooden buildings in the Bryggen Wharf, remnants of its Hanseatic
past.
Despite many fires which ravaged the wharf’s wooden houses,
traditional building methods have prevailed to preserve its
character and some 62 buildings remain of this former townscape.
Definitely one not to miss.
There are many opportunities to set foot on Norway’s soil en route,
and several exciting excursions to tempt you further afield
including the medieval city of Trondheim with its Gothic cathedral,
the wonderful Art Nouveau town of Ålesund, and the North Cape,
mainland Europe’s most northerly point.
By far the best shore trip for us was dog sledging in
Tromso, the capital of the Arctic. It’s difficult to describe the
thrill as you glide across the frozen landscape snuggled
romantically under a blanket (not to mention several layers of
supplied thermal clobber). The mood is magical as you watch the
sky’s hues change dramatically, your thoughts punctuated only by
the sound of the sledge swishing through the snowy plains and the
panting of the dozen huskies at work.
It was truly one of life’s greatest moments and, if you get the
chance, seize it. And talking of life’s wondrous encounters, lady
luck must have been shining down on us (or perhaps my remorseful
grandmother played her part) because, on the final night of our
voyage, the Northern Lights made a gloriously ethereal appearance
to set hearts racing and tears tumbling.
It was a long wait, but this girl got to go to the carnival after
all.
Hurtigruten’s winter Northern Lights
2009-2010 programme is packed full of itineraries to make
the most out of Arctic Norway from three-night short breaks to
longer stays between October and March.
A six-night voyage north from Bergen to Kirkenes, calling at more
than 30 ports of call along the way, costs from £895 per person in
December, including return flights from London Gatwick, six nights
half-board on the ship, transfers and taxes. No single supplements
apply.
A range of excursions can be added such as snowmobiling,
visiting ice hotels and much more.
www.hurtigruten.co.uk
Telephone 0208 846 2666 or 0845 225 6640.
Wednesday, September 09 2009
The KM Group does not moderate comments.
Please click here for our house rules.