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Polar bears, châteaux and wine in the Loir Valley, France

A few metres in front of us, a magnificent creamy white polar bear swam in a bright blue pool before hauling itself onto the bank and stretching its huge jaws into a lazy yawn.

But we were thousands of miles from the marine mammal's natural, icy habitat.

In fact, we were in a cosy wooden lodge in the middle of France, watching the bear through a floor-to-ceiling window in a room with comfortable chairs and a fridge full of food prepared by a Michelin starred chef.

The Arctic Lodge is the latest attraction at Zoo de la Flèche
The Arctic Lodge is the latest attraction at Zoo de la Flèche

The Arctic Lodge is the latest attraction at Zoo de la Flèche, where visitors can also see elephants, giraffes, hippos, lions, flamingos and other animals living in generous-sized enclosures.

And if you don't fancy viewing the polar bears from the sofa, or peering at them through the windows in the children's bedroom, how about admiring them from the outdoor hot tub while sipping a glass of local wine? (More about the wine later.)

Château de Baugé
Château de Baugé

The zoo's wildlife encounters - other accommodation gets you face-to-face with wolves, white tigers, grizzly bears and lemurs - are just the tip of the iceberg (pun intended) when it comes to things to see and do in France's Loir Valley, not to be confused with its feminine cousin the Loire Valley, 40km to the south.

After the zoo, the town of La Flèche is most famous for the Prytanée National Military Academy, founded in the days of Henry IV, which tourists can visit during the summer holidays, and its La Halle au Blé (corn exchange) theatre with the green interior.

But book a town tour through the tourist office like we did and you'll see the area though the eyes of a local and find out fascinating facts such as how inhabitants from the 17th century sailed to Canada and founded Montréal.

Ancient apothecary of the Hotel Dieu in Baugé
Ancient apothecary of the Hotel Dieu in Baugé

The region is famous for magnificent castles and one of the best is Château de Baugé.

Built on the site of an old castle, burnt to the ground to stop the English occupying it during the Hundred Years War, it now houses a museum dedicated to its former owner, art-loving Good King René.

Around the corner from the castle we visited the town's ancient apothecary and saw mummified human fingers, which would have been used to make medicine in the 17th century.

Apothecary de Baugé. Picture: Stevan Lira
Apothecary de Baugé. Picture: Stevan Lira

Château de Durtal boasts one of the largest chimneys in France but Château du Lude, which is still lived in but partially open to visitors, is the most impressive.

We passed through rooms containing crystal chandeliers that weighed an actual tonne and elaborate outfits embroidered with gold leaf before soaking up the last of the evening sunshine in the 17th Century terrace gardens.

A tile factory might not be the first thing that springs to mind when most people are deciding on attractions to visit but the two in Les Rairies are worth a look if you're passing through.

Atelier le Croc tile factory in Les Rairies
Atelier le Croc tile factory in Les Rairies

Yvon Cailleau, in the village, is the more modern workplace where you can wander around the drying sheds and even step inside the kiln, while picturesque Atelier le Croc, on the outskirts of Les Rairies, is listed as an historic monument.

Chez Claudette, close to Yvon Cailleau, does a decent four course lunch for just over €11.

Yvon Cailleau tile factory in Les Rairies
Yvon Cailleau tile factory in Les Rairies

Bercé National Forest, once famed for the clogs, carts and charcoals made from its wood, still produced high quality timber but is also a popular place for walking, cycling and horse riding.

The French like you to really understand what you're looking at so before we walked among the tall oaks, beeches and pines we visited Carnuta in the town of Jupilles, a museum dedicated to the flora and fauna, the sounds and even the smells of the forest.

Just be aware, the child-friendly, interactive exhibits are all in French and tourists from across the Channel will be given an English booklet to decipher.

Chateau de Chambiers in Durtal. Picture: MR Lesvesque
Chateau de Chambiers in Durtal. Picture: MR Lesvesque

When the fresh air in the forest left us hungry, we had lunch at Les Mères Cocottes, a classy cafe in the painfully quiet town of Beaumont-sur-Dême, where the controversial yet delicious foie gras graces the menu alongside extravagant desserts, and local wine can be bought to take away.

We were hoping to take a boat trip on Le Loir, admiring the scenery with another glass of wine and commentary from enthusiastic sailor Michel Timer, but unfortunately we arrived too late in the year.

The bedroom Suz and her partner stayed in at Chateau de Chambiers hotel in Durtal
The bedroom Suz and her partner stayed in at Chateau de Chambiers hotel in Durtal

However, Michel, also a passionate fisherman who has lived on the river for 28 years, painted a vivid picture, and invited us back next summer when the secret project he is working on to make his boat trips even more memorable should be in full swing.

We spent our first night at Château de Chambiers, Durtal, which I can only liken to staying in a museum.

From the gingham canopy bed and antique hair brushes on the dressing table, to the polished silverware and bird ornaments in the dining room, every detail made you feel you were visiting the 18th Century castle in the time of Louis XV.

Chateau de Chambiers hotel in Durtal
Chateau de Chambiers hotel in Durtal

The food, served by owner Anne Crouan, was, I suspect, a lot better than Louis' guests would have eaten as spicy fish soup was followed by cured meat and foraged mushrooms, stuffed tomatoes from the castle gardens, a cheese plate and quince fool, all accompanied by more of that Loir Valley wine.

5 Grande Rue in Le Lude is run by a lovely English couple, Simon and Susan Wachter, who welcomed us to their accommodation with, yep, you've guessed it, a glass of wine.

Chateau du Lude
Chateau du Lude

Their desire to create their ideal guesthouse, inspired by a lifetime of travelling, has resulted in a friendly, modern space, decorated with quirky paraphernalia (look out for the mirror framed with hundreds of stamps) and art from around the world, where guests eat, drink and chat together as they would in someone's home.

Our final night was spent in the Grand Moulin in La Chartre sur Le Loir, a hotel in a former water mill that allows you to sleep as close to the river as you can get without hiring a houseboat.

Dinner in La Chartre sur Le Loir was a non-glamorous affair of snails, steak and tarte tatin in the bar of a hotel just around the corner.

Impressive chandeliers hang in the grand Château du Lude
Impressive chandeliers hang in the grand Château du Lude

If you like cars, and listening to people talking about cars, then Hotel de France, with its long association with the drivers, teams and vehicles of the 24 Hours of Le Mans race, is the place for you.

The walls of the hotel, which has been visited by Sir Stirling Moss, are adorned with black and white photos of famous drivers and there were several fancy looking motors parked outside.

On our last day in Le Loir, we finally got to do what we'd come to France for - wine tasting.

The venue was Le Domaine de la Roche Bleue, a small, unassuming cave above the commune of Marçon, and our host was Sébastien Cornille, an experienced winemaker who sells his product to restaurants in France and suppliers as far afield as America.

Jasnières, made from Chenin blanc grapes, tempted Sébastien Cornille to the area
Jasnières, made from Chenin blanc grapes, tempted Sébastien Cornille to the area

Standing in the dark cavern, surrounded by wooden barrels and with a lingering smell not dissimilar to a thirty-something's house the morning after a lively dinner party, Sébastien introduced us to pineau d'aunis, a "very special" grape found primarily in this region that is hard to grow due to its susceptibility to rot.

Pineau d'aunis was like nothing my partner or I had ever tasted, and we've tried a lot of wine. Spicy and peppery, yet lighter than lot of French reds, Sébastien described it as the Marmite of the wine world - people either love it or hate it.

Barrels of wine at Le Domaine de la Roche Bleue
Barrels of wine at Le Domaine de la Roche Bleue

We were definitely in the former group and bought a bottle to take home.

But when Sébastien bought the vineyard in 2007 it was for a dry white wine, Jasnières, made exclusively in the area from Chenin blanc grapes.

The Jasnières impressed us too, despite us not usually being white wine drinkers, and we're planning to drink our bottle in 10 years' time, when it will apparently be at its best, to bring back happy memories of our trip to the Loir Valley.


Suz travelled by Eurostar and TGV from Ashford International Station to Le Mans (www.voyages-sncf.com). All accommodation and excursions were arranged through the Loir Valley tourist office (www.vallee-du-loir.com). Car hire was with Europcar (www.europcar.co.uk).

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