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Devon and Cornwall explored on journey of discovery

Poldark country, the Lost Gardens of Heligan, Dartmoor - names with which I have been familiar for many years.

Names of places I had never seen - until recently, when my wife, some friends and I took a coach and headed out west.

We were on a voyage of discovery to a part of the country noted for striking variations of landscape, as well as a seemingly limitless choice of things to do and see. On a long weekend, we could only hope to scratch the surface.

The Mud Maid at Heligan. Picture: Heligan Gardens
The Mud Maid at Heligan. Picture: Heligan Gardens

Coach travel seemed to be sensible, partly to avoid the hassle of driving on unfamiliar roads and also to get a better view of the stunning countryside

Going to Devon and Cornwall you are bound to come across a cream tea or two and we had our first when we visited Charlie and AJ, the proud new custodians of Powderham Castle, near Exeter.

The castle has been the Courtenay family home for more than 600 years and Charlie, the new Earl of Devon, came to live there with his American wife and their two children last year, shortly before Charlie's father died.

The young Courtenay family welcome the responsibility of looking after this English treasure and its extensive grounds, home to an impressive herd of fallow deer and a rich variety of wild life.

You can get close-ups of some of that on a safari aboard a tractor-pulled land train with its recorded commentary (www.powderham.co.uk).

Charlie and AJ showed us round their splendid home and gave us some fascinating insights to family history - some of it quite fruity - before we headed for that cream tea.

The bio domes at the Eden Project
The bio domes at the Eden Project

(Just an aside, in Devon the jam goes on top of the cream, while in Cornwall it's the other way round, we were told.)

Powderham is fascinating but, time pressing, we had to head for the cream-on-top county and the idyllic fishing town of Looe.

We were booked to stay for a couple of nights at The Portbyhan Hotel (www.portbyhan.com), which is on the quayside of West Looe.

The 44-room hotel, with its Riverside Restaurant, has recently been refurbished and has superb views of the busy harbour.

It is owned by coach operators and is well used to dealing with groups. That does mean some regimentation with menus and meals, but the food is good and the rooms are comfortable. Lively entertainment on some evenings

Looe and its gorgeous beaches close by have so much to offer that I could have spent the rest of the weekend there. But there were those names to match to places, as well as a visit to what has become an iconic symbol of Cornwall.

The Eden Project (www.edenproject.com), with its tropical rainforest housed in a vast bio dome, has become the focus of world-wide attention.

Charlie and AJ Picture: The Earl and Countess of Devon, Powderham Castle
Charlie and AJ Picture: The Earl and Countess of Devon, Powderham Castle

What was an old clay pit crater has been transformed into a huge expanse of outdoor and under-cover gardens with magnificent plants and beneficial and compatible wildlife, such as bug-eating frogs and toads.

Eden is a charity and is a member of the Great Gardens of Cornwall, home to some of the rarest and most beautiful plants in the country.

Various events to suit all members of the family are staged at the site throughout the year and you can get discounts and benefits while supporting the charity by becoming an Eden Project Member.

We spent about three hours there, but that was not nearly enough time to explore the array of gardens and exhibitions.

You could go back day after day and find something new. There is a lot of walking involved, but buggies, land trains and wheelchairs are available. A shop? Of course - and various places to eat.

On that note, on a warm spring day, thoughts turned to refreshment and we were back on the coach, heading for Charlestown, the Georgian port in Poldark country that will be familiar to viewers of the TV series.

One of the Stuart Lines boats that cruise out of Exmouth
One of the Stuart Lines boats that cruise out of Exmouth

After a bit of exploring we were drawn to the welcoming pub that overlooks the little harbour. The beer was pretty good.

The inspiration for Eden came from the restoration of the Lost Gardens of Heligan (www.heligan.com), near St Austell, the largest such project in Europe.

It is being undertaken in tribute to former workers who lost their lives in the First World War and it was something we had to see.

The gardens being restored are the remnants of part of the 400-year-old Tremayne estate.

They were overgrown and almost lost until pencilled names of those workers were found in a small derelict outbuilding.

The gardens are wonderful, full of mystery corners and excitement. So don't worry about the children; there is plenty to keep them entertained. Plants vary from daisies to pineapple - pineapple!

Find the Giant's Head and the Mud Maid. It's a wonderland. No shortage of places to eat and drink - and get cream teas, of course.

It was back to Devon next day after an early start - to catch a train.

We headed for Buckfastleigh for a trip on a South Devon Railways steam train to Totnes and back (www.southdevonrailway.co.uk).

This is one of the country's oldest steam railways and the train follows the River Dart through beautiful countryside with glimpses of local wildlife. Again, refreshments available en route - and the inevitable gift shop!

Powderham Castle
Powderham Castle

The train journey can be linked with a boat trip to explore this part of the county and we would try that out, in the meantime taking in one of the most important natural reserves in England, Dartmoor National Park.

This vast area of varying terrain, with its legends and mysteries, has something for everyone, whether you enjoy walking, climbing, cycling, exploring or simply taking in the natural sights and sounds. There are trails for wheelchair users and plenty of safe places for children.

Wild ponies and granite tors are among the more obvious attractions that we saw in our brief visit, but Dartmoor also demands time to reveal all its magic. You can get plenty of information from Visit Dartmoor, the official destination guide for 2016 (www.visitdartmoor.co.uk).

The boat trip we took was with Stuart Line Cruises (www.stuartlinecruises.co.uk) based in Exmouth - and it was quite a boat, with inside and top-deck seating, toilets, café catering and a licensed bar.

The skipper gave a commentary about the extensive bird life as we sailed along the lower reaches of the River Exe in comfort - and it would have been impolite to refuse the refreshments as we enjoyed the scenery.

The Giant's Head at Heligan. Picture: Heligan Garden
The Giant's Head at Heligan. Picture: Heligan Garden

The company does various cruises throughout the year, including bird watching cruises with an expert. More information on their web site.

On the road again, this time to Exeter, where we were to stay overnight at Jurys Inn hotel and perhaps get a chance to see around the city before heading for home.

Exeter has its own rich heritage, including the magnificent Gothic cathedral and the 14th century underground passages built to bring drinking water into the city.

The Exeter Visitor Centre will show you how to make the most of a stay (www.visitexeter.com).

Quite a trip, but now I know something about the West Country that could tempt me back.

Kent operator Jay & Kay Coach Tours (www.jayandkaycoachtours.co.uk) include the Portbyhan Hotel in their programme and they will have a trip there next year.

This year, they feature Falmouth and a seven-day tour in September taking in the Eden Project.

There are also various tours to parts of south Devon. The company is a member of the Coach Tourism Council, as are several other operators in Kent who can be found at www.findacoachholiday.com

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