Standing on the top deck in the morning sun, as we slid between snow-capped mountains that sloped down to the fjord’s glassy surface, I knew my first cruise would be more than all-you-can-eat buffets and bingo.

Like a giant floating shopping mall, with its confusing mix of duty free outlets and exclusive jewellery shops; sophisticated cocktail bars and pub quizzes; gaudy carpets and exquisite Chinese porcelain, 20-year-old ms Ryndam took us on a seven-night trip around picturesque Norway.

Dining ranged from a casual canteen and poolside burger bar to four-course meals and silver service with dishes such as filet mignon and baked Alaska.

In the Culinary Arts Centre, which hosts cooking classes and demonstrations, Kimmo Makkonnen, head chef of London’s South Place Hotel, taught our group to open scallops, roast pigeon and bake chocolate fondant.

My Queen of the Fjords excursion, with mountains, waterfalls and gorges, was cancelled due to low numbers, but we were able to book onto a trip on an inflatable boat instead.

So my partner and I explored Bergen.

The famous fish market demonstrated how expensive Norway is for Brits – roughly £14 for fish and chips or £16 for the more controversial whale burger, chips and salad – while a trip up Mount Fløien on the funicular offered panoramic views and shady forests to escape the heat we weren’t expecting.

At the Hanseatic Museum we learnt about Bergen’s history of exporting dried fish and fish oil and discovered the ships sailed to two Kent towns in the Middle Ages – Faversham and (Old) Romney.

I wasn’t keen to take the captain’s advice and be on deck from 7am for our sail into Geirangerfjord but seeing the Ryndam and her 1,260 passengers dwarfed by majestic 1,700m mountains was the highlight of my trip.

That morning I boarded a RIB (rigid inflatable boat) and felt cooling spray on my face as we bumped over waves for close-up views of the Seven Sisters waterfall.

After a lunch of cold salmon and hot boiled potatoes we went on a nail-biting drive up The Eagle Road to Dale Farm, where Åsheld and Jostein Dale make sweet, brown goats cheese from leftover whey and caramelised milk.

Quaint Art Nouveau town Ålesund surprised us with Art Museum Kube, where exhibits were as shockingly powerful as Turner Prize entries. In Eidfjord my partner kayaked while I endured a bamboo massage in the ship’s spa then we met for coffee and waffles served with jam and sour cream.

As thirtysomethings we were half the age of the average passenger and the pace was slow with no flexibility to spend longer in one town or leave another early. But it’s a relaxing way to visit multiple places without constantly packing and unpacking and I would definitely repeat the cruise experience.

Suz's trip, which included excursions, accommodation and meals on board for two people, was funded by Holland America Line.

The seven-night Norse Legends cruise onboard the ms Ryndam departs from Dover and calls at Bergen and Geiranger before cruising the Geirangerfjord. It continues to Ålesund and Eidfjord, then sails the Hardangerfjord before returning to Dover. Prices start from £499 per person, based on two sharing an inside cabin. For more information or to book go to www.hollandamerica.co.uk or call Holland America Line on 0843 374 2300.