First impressions are all important, so it helps enormously that driving into the town centre at Arras is so easy.

One moment you're coming off the A26 motorway, the next you're are popping out of a narrow road into the gob-smacking space of the Grand Place, usually, blissfully, with plenty of parking space on its huge cobbled square, home on high days to circuses, rock concerts, and Saturday markets.

The Grand' Place leads to the smaller Place des Heros. Both are fenced in by the most extravagant baroque'n'roll merchant's houses.

Arras was all but obliterated in the First World War. About 80% was reduced to piles of bricks and burning rafters. But in the desperately poor post-war years Arras got off its knees, dug out the carefully stored plans of its old buildings - and rebuilt them.

Sitting at one of the arcaded pavement cafes, or underground bars, it's a theatre set: somewhere to dress up for, to parade around and show off in. It's got wit as well as style. In the magnificent town hall a family of giants stand guard outside the tourist information office.

Close by it is the entrance to the boves. The merchants whose houses ring the square, dug out the chalk beneath their houses to provide more building material and storage area for their goods. The caves and tunnels were extended to give protection in times of wars, and are now open to tour.

At ground level there are art galleries, museums and a real sense of town at work and play. The locals crowd the bars and restaurants. On market day a gang gather to make their own breakfast in one of the older cafes, farmers, architects and historians mingling happily over a plate and a glass of red wine.

In the Grand Place the locals root through the CDs for the polka medleys and the accordionists' hit collections that give the area it's almost oomph band buzz. It's a town that likes itself.

Take the lift to the top of the 80m high belfry to enjoy a new angle on its treasures. Then descend into the Wellington Quarry museum. It is based in the underground quarries in which the Commonwealth armies gathered to prepare for the 1917 Battle of Arras, a superb evocation of the fear and anticipation of the thousands of troops waiting for the off.

The British Army was based in Arras for most of the First World War, while the Canadians date the coming of age of their country from their battle at nearby Vimy in 1917.

Nowadays, Arras is a cosmopolitan town that likes a show, and a good laugh. No wonder we warm to Arras.