Up until recently, if you were to say ‘hip’ in the context of Herne Bay, I’d be making some joke about how I’d expect the word ‘replacement’ to follow.

Like many others, I’ve tended to unfairly write it off as a retirement town, snubbing it in favour of its more glamorous cousin, Whitstable.

But while I was desperately pretending to find oysters appealing and fighting over expensive parking spaces just a few miles up the coast, it turns out that things have been changing in so-called Hernia Bay.

Its pier is now home to a glitzy steakhouse that looks like it belongs in a high-class marina, there’s a lovely little vegan cafe, its Indian takeaway has won national plaudits and then, the reason for my visit - The Pier Ceylon.

When I was last here, this handsome old Victorian building had been boarded up. Come to think of it, it was the time before, and before that.

Step forward Harry Marsh and Dilushan Fernando, who, after eight years empty, decided to give it the TLC it deserves and opened a Sri Lankan-inspired restaurant and bar.

Within 15 minutes I’m looking out at the sea from my spot under rattan lampshades, sipping a lemon meringue cheesecake cocktail and wondering why this is only my first trip.

The menu is right up my street. There are classic crowd-pleasers, but mixed in with a smattering of something different. My liquid cheesecake, topped with tiny meringue pieces, featured vanilla vodka and lemon juice with a buttery, biscuity syrup.

It was tart and creamy, and oh so good. Staying on the dessert theme, I followed it up with a chocolate martini, and - look away now Celebrations box snobs - asked for the ‘Bounty’ bar version.

If I were marooned on a faraway island, and could only choose one cocktail, this would be the one. Velvety, coconutty, chocolatey joy. Bliss.

My drinking buddy was also in his own tropical paradise - first with a Colombo Kiss with gin, mango, lime, coconut, ginger beer and lemonade, and then an Amaretti sour mocktail.

While you order at the bar, drinks are brought to your table, which was a nice touch - especially given my propensity to lose a good 30-50% of a cocktail in spillage on the walk back to my seat if I’m in anything approaching a heel.

I was smitten.

It’s an eclectic place that seemed to appeal to people from all walks of life - I noted at least two different primary colour hair shades among its patrons, plus young mums and babies, a group of retirees, students and a couple enjoying a glass of wine in the sought-after window spot.

Sought-after particularly by me - but sadly they didn’t respond to my evil eye stare and continued happily sipping and chatting, unabashed.

There are posters everywhere advertising jazz nights, life-drawing classes, drag bingo and quizzes. It felt like much more than just a place to go drinking, and somewhere that’s clearly found a place in the heart of this seaside community.

Just days before my visit, The Pier Ceylon had even featured on KentOnline after its owners took in the residents of a nearby care home during a fire there, giving them tea, coffee and refuge. Dogs are clearly encouraged too, judging by the biscuit bowls.

Catch up with the Secret Drinker’s latest review here

And my goodness, the curries looked exceptional too.

Having been abandoned for the best part of a decade, the former Pier Hotel, as it was, could easily have been left as a relic of bygone days.

But this venture shows how, with some guts and vision, new life can be breathed into even this oldest of buildings.

Not often do I sit in a cocktail bar, wistfully wishing I was there again (albeit in that window seat), before having even left.

I will definitely be back for jazz or a quiz. Sorry Whitstable, I’m not sure oysters are for me after all…

The Pier Ceylon, Station Road, Herne Bay, CT6 5NE

Décor: Smart casual in room form. I loved how the bold green and gold bar area provided a sophisticated drinking spot while the laid-back rattan lamp-lit dining room had a more relaxed vibe, both with nice Sri Lankan touches ****

Drinks: Everything hit the spot. The cocktails were creative, there were lots to choose from, and they were delivered to the table so I got to savour every last drop *****

Price: Happy hour is daily between 12-6pm (or all day Thursday) and offers two selected drinks for a very agreeable £15. The fact you don’t have the usual caveat of having to have two of the same makes this deal even better and cuts down on any rows with your drinking partner. Otherwise, the cocktails are priced at £11, which seems fair enough ****

Staff: While it was too busy to really get chatting to the bar staff, everyone we met was really friendly and you could imagine getting on ‘locals’ terms pretty easily. Frankly, they get 5 stars just for how they stepped in after the care home fire *****

Best for: Lazy weekends with friends