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In the Mix review of The Pumproom bar at Copper Rivet Distillery in Chatham which makes Dockyard Gin, Masthhouse Grain Whisky and Vela Vodka

Emails that drop into my inbox at 4.47pm on a Friday are rarely welcome, but I’ll make an exception for this one.

It was from the good folks over at Copper Rivet Distillery in Chatham suggesting I might like to enjoy what was left of the sun on their terrace with something fizzy in my hand.

The Pumproom bar at Copper Rivet Distillery
The Pumproom bar at Copper Rivet Distillery

You don’t need to ask me twice - the ignition was on precisely 13 minutes later.

Last year, I’d been among those who’d been saddened to learn that the distillery’s owners had decided to close its restaurant and bar, The Pumproom - I’d been blown away by its top-notch tapas just a few months before.

But, while food is still off the menu, there was a reprieve for those of us lamenting the loss of its glorious riverside sun terrace with news that the bar would be reopening last month.

It makes sense. This farm-to-glass distillery, using barley, rye and wheat grown on Sheppey, produces its own premium range of whiskies, gins and vodkas, so where better to try them out?

Imagine my surprise, then, as I walked in to find myself surrounded by drinkers, not with Martinis and Manhattans, but with wine buckets and pints of lager.

Inside the former Victorian pumphouse
Inside the former Victorian pumphouse

In fact, not one person was sipping something made on site - what a waste!

I couldn’t blame them, though. It mentions cocktails on its sign outside, there were cocktails mentioned in the email - but when I asked for the cocktail menu, I was told there wasn’t one, and they weren’t really a cocktail bar.

There was a brief list of suggested serves on a piece of paper - a few gin/vodka and tonic pairings - and the barmaid said her colleague could whip up a few classic drinks on request, but there was nothing championing and celebrating this remarkable place.

And it really is remarkable.

The Pumphouse is based in a stunning Grade II-listed Victorian building in the Royal Naval Dockyard, which had lain derelict for years until it was spotted by chance by Matthew Russell, who was picnicking at Upnor Castle on the other side of the River Medway.

Damson Gin and Lemon Tonic and a Margarita
Damson Gin and Lemon Tonic and a Margarita

Not long after that he had the keys, and after a three-year restoration, it opened as a distillery in 2016. Dockyard Gin, Masthouse Whisky, Son of a Gun coffee liqueur and Vela Vodka are now all made there.

The realisation of that vision is pretty inspiring - and the photographs of visiting royals (our very own King for one) on the walls are a nod to how special it is.

I just wish that backstory had come across at the bar. I’m sure you’d be left in no doubt of the place’s pedigree had you arrived there after a tour, but to regular off-the-pavement punters like us it was left to another drinker to fill us in on the area’s heritage, as the staff sheepishly admitted they were new and didn’t know much about it.

After a brief history lesson and determined not to join the bubbly brigade, I ordered a Damson Gin Liqueur and Lemon Tonic. My drinking buddy, who doesn’t get on with gin, entered a state of panic when invited to suggest a classic cocktail he might like, and reverted to his trusty Margarita.

Where to sit was a no-brainer. Inside is magnificent, a harmony of red brick and wood with industrial touches, but the sun was calling, and so out to the terrace we went.

The view across the River Medway
The view across the River Medway

There can’t be many better views than this from a ‘beer garden’ in Kent.

As we watched the sun slip down over the River Medway, behind bobbing boats and Upnor Castle, we swapped notes on the drinks.

The damson G&T was a first for me, and reminded me a little of Cherry Drops. It was unusual, refreshing, and all the better for knowing the gin had been made just a few feet away.

The Margarita was bob on and definitely took the prize for looks, in its elegant salt-rimmed coupe glass.

After walking past staff setting up for an event - a cocktail masterclass of all things, and for a drink that wasn’t being advertised at the bar - I decided to do something I’ve never done before.

There was a choice of whisky for our final cocktail
There was a choice of whisky for our final cocktail

I took matters into my own hands and dug out an internet recipe.

I was keen to try the whisky and I’d already spied some lonely-looking hazelnut liqueur on the back shelf, so the good-natured bartender very obligingly agreed to have a go at a Frangelico Old Fashioned, using the distillery’s single malt.

Props to him, and Google - this drink was absolutely sublime. Warming, nutty and smooth, it was the perfect sundowner.

I could quite happily while away every balmy Friday night here, looking out at the water with one of these in my hand.

I’d loved spending the golden hour drinking golden drinks at this amazing venue. My only criticism was that this bar was just too modest.

The Frangelico Old Fashioneds were perfect sundowners
The Frangelico Old Fashioneds were perfect sundowners

Catch up with the Secret Drinker’s latest review here

It should be shouting from the rooftops about its spirits and its story, and putting them in pride of place in a cocktail menu that explains the area’s heritage, rather than listing a few G&T options on a sheet of paper.

I could easily have left without knowing this gin and whisky I’d just tasted were made on site, or a bigger travesty - not have tasted them at all in favour of a pinot.

I can only hope the bar is still developing its menu and direction so soon after re-opening and that it gets the patronage it deserves this time around.

In fairness, the following week it was advertising a new serve and a pizza pop-up, so I don’t doubt my visit just came very early in the place finding its feet again.

One thing’s for sure - I’ll be opening my Friday afternoon emails with a lot more enthusiasm if I can expect more invitations to this stunning spot. But next time, a cocktail menu please!

Inisde The Pumproom bar
Inisde The Pumproom bar

Copper Rivet Distillery, Leviathan Way, Chatham Dockyard, Chatham ME4 4LP

Décor: I can see why this building interrupted Mr Russell’s picnic. Thanks to him it’s now as impressive inside as it is outside, and the terrace views are second to none *****

Drinks: This distillery knows what it’s doing when it comes to its spirits, I’d just have liked to see them showcased a little better to tempt people away from the lagers and wines. The Frangelico Old Fashioned is my new obsession ****

Price: Prices ranged from £5.80 for a G&T to £12 for the cocktails, which is towards the higher end for Kent. But remember, this gin is no Gordon’s ***

Staff: The staff were new and clearly still getting up to speed on the venue. This didn’t stop the bartender from being able to deal with our off-menu requests with a smile and aplomb though ***

Best for: Sundowners

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