There’s nothing like the satisfaction that comes from pushing open the doors of a cosy pub and easing off your boots after a country walk.

And this was no ordinary walk, or pub, for that matter.

I’d spent my Saturday taking in the marshes and mudflats that make up the Saxon Shore Way between Conyer and Faversham.

My colleague had already sung the praises of this particularly picturesque route, and if the KentOnline seal of approval wasn’t enough, it has also been named in the top 20 coastal walks in Britain by The Times.

I could see why, with its epic views over the Swale Estuary on one side and sweeping vistas of fields filled with prancing lambs and blossom-filled orchards on the other.

But, after a tiring but rewarding stroll and treading in more than my fair share of sheep poo, the best sight of all was when The Ship Inn, perched beside the quaint quayside at Conyer, came into view.

“This is it,” we thought as a glass of rosé and Cruzcampo arrived at the bar. “We’ve earned this.”

I had no idea what to expect from this place, having only reopened under new management a few months ago.

This particular Ship became the scene of its own Mary Celeste-esque mystery when, in December 2023, it shut without warning. Dismayed locals turned up to find nothing but a note in the window. Meanwhile, upcoming events were still being promoted on its Facebook page.

After nine months empty, however, it was taken on by first-time landlord Harry Roberts, who said he planned to bring in chefs with Michelin star experience and focus on locally-sourced food.

That in mind, I felt a little twinge of sadness as I remembered those baby sheep frolicking as my other half ordered the rump of lamb.

I plumped for the posh fish and chips - or to give it its proper title, halibut with seaweed potatoes, asparagus, wild garlic, madeira and morel mushroom sauce - and we settled in at our corner table.

Inside, The Ship Inn ticked two of my three boxes when it comes to the perfect pub ambience - a real fire and a dog. In fact, there was a whole link or string (whatever the collective term is) of sausage dogs.

I’ll let them off not having the third - hops over the bar - as there was plenty of rustic charm to be had, coming from exposed bricks, distressed wood and period-style furniture.

It wasn’t long before our mains arrived, and at this point, the penny dropped. This wasn’t a run-of-the-mill gastropub, overcharging hungry ramblers as I’d feared - we’d stumbled across something special.

The fish was firm and buttery, but it was the rich, earthy sauce that stole the show. The potatoes were melt-in-the-mouth tender, and the seaweed - thankfully, the variety a distant relative of those sludgy stinkbombs that can spoil a day at the beach - added a subtle saltiness.

It was “mop up every last drop” delicious.

The lamb was, dare I say, even better. Seared to perfection, it came with confit belly, Jerusalem artichoke and its pairing with salty, tangy feta and capers was a match made in heaven.

We had initially baulked when we’d seen the prices - both dishes came in at an eye-watering £32 - but any complaints over that were soon forgotten.

This was the stuff of special occasions, and as good as anything I’ve eaten in Kent.

So good, we couldn’t resist the pull of the dessert menu. Everything was £9, apart from the cheeseboard (£13). It’s fine, we decided, we could always pawn some family silver.

Mine - a chocolate crèmeux with salted caramel, peanut praline and honeycomb ice cream - was like the best Crunchie you’ve ever had, while my dining partner had a pistachio sponge cake with a refreshing strawberry sorbet, which was just as delicious.

Full and content, the after-dinner talk turned to why we’d never heard of this place before, and how long it would be before there’d be a waiting list to book a table here.

“Maybe we could fudge the review and say it was average?” came the suggestion.

I suspect it wouldn’t be long before the Michelin team rumbled us, though. The Ship Inn is just a stone’s throw down the coast from The Sportsman in Seasalter - another pub in a prime position on this pretty part of the Estuary - which has had a star since 2008.

Having been fortunate enough to get a table there a few years ago, I can say that what we’d just tasted was right up there in the quality stakes.

Even if The Ship doesn't get that particular accolade, though, it’s safe to say this five-mile stretch of coastline is now home to not only one of the best walks but also two of the best dining experiences around, and we can count ourselves lucky to have it on our doorstep.

Out of five:

Food: My lack of expectations meant I had the joy of having my socks knocked off by the standard of grub here. Surely worthy of a Michelin star *****

Drink: There was a good selection of wines, including from local vineyards, and I’m reliably informed the lager was more than satisfactory too *****

Decor: It was rustic and relaxed inside, and the garden looked like it would be a lovely little sun-trap in better weather *****

Staff: Faultless. We had a warm welcome at the bar and attentive service at our table, meaning plates were never empty or glasses running low for very long *****

Price: Did I baulk at paying £32 for posh fish and chips? To begin with. But it was a truly memorable meal, and I didn’t feel short-changed on quality. The menu did have more affordable options, with mains starting at £18 when we visited, plus gourmet sandwiches from £9 ****