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A bistro beloved by celebrity chef Tom Kerridge has secured a victory after it was granted permission to continue using the space upstairs, which used to be a flat.
Self-dubbed “accidental restauranteur” George Begg applied for retrospective permission to use the two upper floors of Samphire, in Whitstable High Street, as a kitchen, arguing the business would be “unviable” without the extra space.
Tens of thousands of pounds have already been invested in refurbishing the upstairs apartment and Mr Begg said last year it was “crucial to the survival and success” of the restaurant, which is one of Mr Kerridge’s favourite places to eat in the seaside town.
Approving the application, an officer for Canterbury City Council said the loss of the one-bed market property was acceptable due to the impact it would have on the business.
The officer’s report goes on: “Although the expansion has resulted in the loss of property, given the contribution this commercial building has made, and continues to make, towards the vitality and viability of the Whitstable town centre, along with its compatibility with the amenity in the area, on balance, this weighs in favour of supporting the proposal.
“This is especially the case when considering the statement which cautions that without utilising the first and second floors as commercial the restaurant would become unviable.”
From 2011 the acclaimed restaurant used a lock-up space across the road to prepare food and for storage, but in 2016 the flat upstairs became available.
However, it was unfit for human habitation, so Mr Begg invested heavily in refurbishing the space to meet commercial catering standards.
Samphire was awarded a five-star hygiene rating after the revamp and across the years, approached the landlord several times to integrate the flat into the commercial lease for the restaurant – with an agreement made in 2023.
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In his application, Mr Begg said that no complaints had been raised by neighbours as a result of the refurbishment.
Samphire has featured in the Good Food Guide several times and was named pub/bistro of the year at the Taste of Kent Awards in 2017.
Known for appearing on The Great British Menu and Saturday Kitchen, Mr Kerridge has praised the bistro for celebrating local produce.
He told Conde Nast Traveller magazine: “Samphire is another Whitstable staple that likes to celebrate local produce, and it’s a tiny little independent restaurant that is family-run.
“The guy who started it converted it from an old shop space and, by day, it’s a relaxed breakfast and lunch spot. But by night it’s somewhere people will go for a nice supper.”
He added: “But I love it because, aside from having a wonderful atmosphere, it is all about celebrating local, Kentish produce, loud and proud.”
Samphire has been contacted for comment.