A dozen monks ride Segways through the thronging crowds. Amelia Earhart’s plane wobbles overhead. In the distance an enormous dragon slowly swims up the river, shooting fire from its nostrils.

I’m in Londonderry/ Derry for the Return of Colmcille extravaganza. Colmcille – pronounced ‘Columkill’ – is the Irish name for Columba, the patron saint who travelled from the city to the Scottish island of Iona in the year 563. Today, he returns to the city in the form of an enormous party.

Legend states that Colmcille was responsible for banishing the Loch Ness Monster into the River Ness in the first place, which explains the fire-breathing beast’s presence on the Foyle tonight. Other parts of the city's illustrious history, including its role in Amelia Earhart’s transatlantic solo flight, are being celebrated here in a weekend-long pageant taking place across the city.

It’s a fairly small place, with a population of under 100,000 and a city centre based within the confines of ancient city walls. With a staggering number of pubs and bars, and with a population of inherently friendly people, it’s hard not to get involved with the varied nightlife around the main drag.

For a lot of people the name ‘Londonderry’ refers to a border town at the epicentre of a violent conflict. But while evidence remains of the Troubles – mainly in the form of graffiti and murals – Derry is an extremely restful city, with a relaxed atmosphere and welcoming public spaces.

And it isn’t just the Troubles which have shaped Derry over the 20th century. In World War Two, after a secret deal between the British and American governments, the US set up their first European base on the banks of the river Foyle. As the most westerly port in the UK, it became a vital staging post and strategic port for the transatlantic convoys.

Today, Derry is densely packed with art and museums. If it’s culture you’re after, then the UK’s City of Culture is a fairly good place to start – the Return of Colmcille celebrations are part of a year-long schedule of artistic delights.

While it’s possible to drive and take a ferry to Northern Ireland, flying is both easier and cheaper.

Fares to City of Derry Airport start at around £50 return, although there are more flights to Belfast. The budget airlines fly from Gatwick and Stansted.

This is a beautiful city with a rich and varied history spanning thousands of years. In addition to the culture, the food, the architecture and the art, it boasts some of the proudest locals in the United Kingdom – there’s a reason why they call their hometown ‘Legenderry’.

Ed travelled courtesy of Tourism Ireland.

For accommodation in Londonderry why not visit www.ownersdirect.co.uk/county-londonderry.htm