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Eat My Words: We review the Archive cafe on Military Road, Ramsgate

There’s a famous line in the original Star Wars movie where Obi-Wan Kenobi describes a spaceport he and boy-wonder Luke Skywalker must visit as a “wretched hive of scum and villainy”.

While that was uttered a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away, it is how many in Kent view Ramsgate.

Archive is aesthetically pleasing inside and out
Archive is aesthetically pleasing inside and out

It is, of course, a completely ludicrous, lazy, insult.

Because, while I have no doubt if you’re strolling the streets at chucking out time on a Saturday night you may want to be alert (as you would everywhere else in the county), to avoid the town due to the scaremongers means you miss out on one of Kent’s most picture-postcard destinations.

Not to mention an ever-increasing smorgasbord of top-notch food and drink venues...one of which, we hope, we stroll into five days before Christmas.

Archive is one of a number of cafés, restaurants and knick-knack outlets which now occupy a row of former boat repair shops which line the town’s royal marina.

In the summer they are always throbbing with day-trippers and locals alike. In the winter, they offer a warm respite from the chilly December air.

Pretty and considered - the ground floor of Archive
Pretty and considered - the ground floor of Archive

Archive describes itself as – and I quote – a ‘design-led lifestyle store and cafe’. I’ll be honest and say I’m not entirely sure what that means. Suffice to say it all sounds rather pretentious. Uh-oh.

We stroll through the arched brickwork entrance, past a selection of books on sale and a substantial bar offering a range of tasty cakes and find a seat in the upstairs section. It gives us a view over the marina – the waters of which lap a few yards from the front door.

Shortly after we sit down, a 40-something chap (a fellow diner) arrives with a perfectly coiffured moustache (which looks like it was modelled on Kitchener’s famous ‘your country needs you’ pose).

I don’t want to broad-brush this as a sort of Down from London destination (nor, I must stress, do I say that in a derogatory sense), but that’s what the first impressions are. You know what I mean.

But this place really is quite special. Rather than attracting DfLs, it should be attracting Down from Across Kenters. In fact, it deserves all men who enter it to wear fabulous moustaches in its honour.

Upstairs at Archive - with that clever wooden contraption which links the upstairs and downstairs and provides kitchen space
Upstairs at Archive - with that clever wooden contraption which links the upstairs and downstairs and provides kitchen space

Firstly, Archive delivers something of a masterclass in interior design. Someone has clearly thought about how everything looks and feels here – the centrepiece of which is a bit of clever carpentry which links the two floors. The result is an extremely pleasing, welcoming, atmosphere.

Given our proximity to Christmas, the place is decorated to suit the season – but gently and in an aesthetically delightful way. There’s no gaudy tinsel strung across the high ceilings – instead it's carefully crafted hanging snowflakes and a sprinkle of lights (although, in fairness, for all I know, they are there all-year round).

Each table comes complete with a tiny little Christmas tree (I assume they’re not still sat there in June). It’s hard not to be thoroughly charmed.

But let’s get on to the food.

Mere moments after we’ve settled and scoped out the menu, our orders are taken.

The little Christmas trees on each table
The little Christmas trees on each table

I order the halloumi and mango salsa wrap with ‘house slaw’ from the lunch menu for £10. My guest goes for the sauteed mushrooms on sourdough toast with thyme, garlic and cream at £8.

For all the nice lighting and fancy moustaches on show, will it be all style and no substance?

Have you been to Archive? Nominate it or your favourite place to eat in the Kent & Medway Food & Drink Awards

In short, no. Because after we’ve both taken mouthfuls of our food we are smitten.

Firstly, both plates are extremely generous. Given the price, I half expected ‘small plates, beautifully presented’. Instead, it’s big plates with food which you will struggle to not want to reorder the moment you’ve finished. Assuming, of course, your appetite is not thoroughly sated.

As a word of warning, the pictures of our dishes really fail to do either justice.

Now that's a wrap (boom boom)
Now that's a wrap (boom boom)

I know a wrap ought to be picked up and eaten by hand. But these are, frankly, more than a handful when it comes to polite eating. Instead, I attack with a knife and fork. See if I care. (I dread to think what the man with the ‘tache thinks).

The huge hunks of halloumi sit with chunks of mango and on a more than generous helping of slaw (when did we stop calling it coleslaw, by the way?). The combination of flavours take your tastebuds on a merry knees-up. The wrap itself is tasty and avoids the all-to-common issue of just being stodge to weigh you down and disguise a lack of filling. This thing is rammed with moist deliciousness.

Just look at the quantity of filling in this thing
Just look at the quantity of filling in this thing

I pinch a mushroom from my dining partner – well seasoned, beautifully cooked and I’d quite happily sit and eat that too.

I’ve spent plenty more on far less impressive dishes and in places considerably more ugly but thinking themselves a real cut above the rest. This actually is.

The mushrooms were absolutely delicious (albeit not particularly picturesque)
The mushrooms were absolutely delicious (albeit not particularly picturesque)

We pay the bill – the staff are all friendly and efficient – and as we leave we reflect on this being the sort of place where the owners have clearly invested well in order to deliver real quality at a solid price.

For both of us, including a (very nice) coffee, it was a little over £20.

It's either a balloon, buttock or, as I prefer to think, a heart on this coffee
It's either a balloon, buttock or, as I prefer to think, a heart on this coffee

Archive, dear reader, is my present to you this Christmas – make a New Year’s resolution to go and check it out.

Out of five:

Food: Fabulous, generous, flavour-packed dishes at very decent prices. You can’t ask for much more. *****

Drink: I only opted for a latte (which, and I know I’m just an old fart when it comes to this, but I still think £3.50 is quite a lot for a coffee), but you could have beers, wine, cocktails, smoothies, iced drinks, fancy coffees and teas and juices. Complimentary ice water was delivered to the table too. ****

Decor: Understated class, I think, is the best way to describe this place. Don’t be put off by its initial slightly pretentious air – it really delivers where it counts. *****

Staff: Friendly and efficient ****

Price: £22.50 for both meals and a drink. Great value given the superior quality of the whole experience ****.

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