I’m standing within touching distance of the mummy of the teenage king Tutankhamun – surely the most famous Egyptian of all time.

He still lies in his tomb in the Valley of the Kings, which his 3,337-year-old body has never left despite the treasures buried with him being shown around the world.

It’s an eerie feeling to gaze on the teenager, now thought to have died after becoming infected through a leg injury. It's a must-have photo for the travel album - except no photography is allowed in the Valley.

But it was one of many truly astonishing sights in a Classic Egypt tour along the mighty Nile between Luxor and Aswan, organised by specialists Discover Egypt.

I was aboard the Royal Viking, one of the river’s most luxurious boats, where I was regally catered for in sumptuous surroundings by attentive staff.

But back to Tutankhamun whose gold coffin would be worth more than £3m at today’s prices, just in precious metal.

The tomb was one of three out of 63 so far discovered in the Valley of the Kings which I visited, plus two in the Valley of the Queens and numerous spectacular temples including the magnificent funerary temple of the queens Hatshepsut.

Most of the Pharaohs tombs were raided of their valuables long ago - often later by the workers who built them.

But what made Tutankhamun's so special was that, although one of the smaller and less spectacular ones, it's contents were almost intact.

But there are believed to be more undiscovered, including that of Ramses VIII, so the digging goes on.

The walls and ceilings of the tombs are lined with breathtaking coloured, symbolic carvings and hieroglyphics which often took years to complete.

Our visits took in the temples of Luxor and and Karnak and the extraordinary Avenue of the Sphinxes - a project to open up a two mile avenue lined with sphinxes which has involved moving hundreds of homes.

Also on the itinerary were visits to the temple of Horus at Edfu, the ptolemic temple of Kom Ombo and then by boat to the stunning island temple of Philae.

The scale of the design and execution of the buildings is simply breathtaking. It's like you've walked onto the set of Jason and the Argonauts. It’s hard to believe the exteriors of the massive limestone temples were once completely painted in bright colours, but remarkably some of that faded colour still survives in shaded areas.

The unfinished obelisk at Aswan did not exactly fill me with anticipation – until I saw how the Egyptians cut a 1,100 tonne tower of granite from bedrock and transported it up river.

Another extraordinary sight is a collection of mummified Nile crocodiles – a creature the ancient Egyptians embraced in the dubious belief they would not be attacked.

These days the great Dam at Aswan, which created Lake Nasser, prevents them from going down river towards Luxor, much to the relief of those living by and using the waters.

It is impossible to even summarise the ancient Egyptians 5,000 year history in so few words. But on leaving tombs and temples you will be simply in awe of their incredible skills.

My group had the advantage of Egyptian historian Ahmed Mustafa who really brought this extraordinary civilisation to life - as well as keeping the very persistent hawkers at bay.

But there are a few issues visitors should be aware of. Some previous unrest in Cairo has decimated the tourist industry, although I felt perfectly safe.

The dire economic climate means the traders are desperate for business - sometimes too desperate which can be off-putting.

You can't help feeling they would do a lot better if they backed off a little.

For seasoned travellers, evidence of poverty and grotty toilets with attendants wanting money may not be an issue, but could come as a culture shock to some. And don't expect many chic cafes.

By the time we docked in Aswan we had chugged 200km down the Nile, cooling off from the 30c heat in the top deck pool and chilling out in the evenings watching the river banks pass by.

The food and creature comforts on board were excellent although a minor gripe was no fresh coffee in the mornings.

Alcohol is a bit of a taboo product in Muslim countries but is served in hotels and on cruise boats. Just don't expect Caribbean flair to the presentation - or ice.

My holiday was truly memorable. You really have to see it to believe how extraordinary the ancient Egyptians were. And cruising is simply the best way.

As for the traders, well I did succumb to one dad and young son on a rowing boat who seemed to take their lives in the hands to get alongside the Royal Viking while we powered up river.

I parted with the equivalent of a fiver for a traditional garment which I wore once for dinner on the boat of which, conveniently no photos exist.

Discover Egypt operates weekly Nile cruises with flights to Luxor from London and Manchester. Prices start from £799 including return flights, seven nights full board on a five star boat with 10 excursions.
Pre and post cruise stays are available in Luxor, Aswan, Cairo and the Red Sea.
For more information visit www.discoveregypt.co.uk or call 020 7407 2111.
More on other operators at www.egypt.travel.
EgyptAir has weekly return flights on Mondays to Luxor from Heathrow starting at £350. See www.egyptair.com