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Relax on a break to Dubrovnik with a stay at the luxury Hotel Excelsior

As I look out over a stunning view of Dubrovnik from the sanctuary of my hotel room, I realise this is the pinnacle of the fascination I’ve held for the city for more than 20 years.

In the early 1990s, as a 12-year-old, I looked on horrified as pictures of terracotta roofs and historic buildings being bombed during the break-up of the former Yugoslavia flooded the TV news.

But the city bounced back and this year I got my chance to go. The magic of being in the “pearl of the Adriatic”, as Dubrovnik is affectionately labelled, was enhanced by staying in a pearl of a hotel – the Hotel Excelsior.

Dubrovnik's waterside
Dubrovnik's waterside

We were lucky enough to secure one of the Excelsior’s 17 suites. A lounge and huge bathroom overlooked the beautiful old town, while our bedroom revealed those sparkling seas and a view of Lokrum island.

The bathroom at one of the Hotel Excelsior's suites
The bathroom at one of the Hotel Excelsior's suites

All of this presented me and my other half, Tony, with a dilemma. Having wanted to explore this place since being on the cusp of a spotty teenager here it was all laid out for me and I need not leave our luxury base.

But, feeling that slight griminess only economy-class flying can induce, I made a snap decision: it would be rude not to try out the massive whirlpool bath while gazing a bit longer at that view.

A balcony with a view at the Hotel Excelsior
A balcony with a view at the Hotel Excelsior

After prising ourselves away, we headed for a tour of the city walls. It costs only around £10 per person, but what you get is a bird’s eye view of just how lovely, yet packed, the old town buildings are. You see little streets so small you would miss them at ground level, and tiny baroque churches hidden away from the Stradun (main street).

Stunning views from a tour of Dubrovnik's old city walls
Stunning views from a tour of Dubrovnik's old city walls

We happily spent two and a half hours leisurely strolling about the city.

Back at the Excelsior, we’re also starting to realise the hotel has a rich history too. It was opened in 1913 and quickly became the go-to destination for people such as Margaret Thatcher and Elizabeth Taylor. The old building is now annexed to a modern one, which opened in 2008.

The Hotel Excelsior, one of Dubrovnik's oldest and most luxurious hotels
The Hotel Excelsior, one of Dubrovnik's oldest and most luxurious hotels

A day packed full of sight-seeing and history could only be rounded off one way – a visit to the large pool and spa area. A highlight was relaxing on heated beds around the pool.

Back in your room, which comes complete with his and hers bath robes, you can carry on the spa theme and a knock on the door at 8pm reveals a member of staff with a complimentary chocolate.

All of this led to a wonderful night’s sleep, and the Excelsior and Dubrovnik were working their magic and unravelling my stresses and strains.

The Stradun, Dubrovnik's main street
The Stradun, Dubrovnik's main street

Day two brought us into contact with perhaps one of the biggest breakfast buffets I will ever witness. The Excelsior offers a vast range from cereals, fruits and cold meats, to a full cooked breakfast and even cakes for afters.

Click here for more on the Hotel Excelsior

I needed the fortification, for a ride in Dubrovnik’s cable car was pending.

A cable car ride brings you into contact with views like this
A cable car ride brings you into contact with views like this

Built in 1969 and later modernised the clean, silent cabs whisk you 405 metres to the top of Mount Srdj in one and a half minutes for a superlative (I am running out of positive adjectives) view over everything.

I only have two fears in life - heights and being whisked anywhere quickly. But all I can add is getting to the summit was simply worth it. I would not have wanted to miss this experience.

For roughly £12, we chose the return cable-car option that includes a visit to an exhibition on the siege of Dubrovnik.

It was one of the best decisions: it soon becomes clear you are standing in the same mountain-top fort used by Croatian troops to defend the city they – and this former spotty teenager – loved.

Need to know:

Must try: You don’t need much to experience this wonderful place. Just your legs and a guidebook will have you uncovering all sorts of gems.

Go-to destination: Spend a while at the Hotel Excelsior’s Abakus Piano bar, which overlooks the old town. There is no better place to be, with a drink and/or snack as the sun goes down.

Don’t bother: Trying to talk to anyone about the 1990s conflict. It is still very raw and sensitive.

Booking details

Accommodation: Hotel Excelsior, 00 385 20 300 300, email: reservations@alh.hr. Suites start at 350 Euros, including breakfast. Deals can be found by clicking here.

Flights: Most major carriers fly to Dubrovnik airport, which is around 12km from the old town.

City walls tour: citywallsdubrovnik.hr

Cable car: dubrovnikcablecar.com

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