I’ve never understood folks who do Dry January – after all, if you want a month off the booze why pick the worst, most boring month to do it? What’s more worrying is pubs in one corner of Kent appear to be joining this month of abstinence.

Mrs SD and I were after a bite for lunch and spotted the Jolly Farmer on Manston High Street but sadly, although the lights were on, the door was bolted. Further along the A299 we reached Broomfield but, despite a new paint job, the Huntsman & Horn was locked up tight too. With the Gate Inn at Chislet also closed, I wondered if we’d ever get a sarnie.

Fortunately it was a case of fourth time lucky as The Bell in St Nicholas at Wade is bucking the local trend by staying open to serve thirsty punters.

We were welcomed in equal measure by barmaid Keira and regular Chris, who has his own table by the fire reserved every day of the calendar year (he’s even got a statue to prove it).

Chris, who ought to know, says there are usually three beers on tap and they are changed regularly, however in the words of a famous Meatloaf song I was reduced to a choice of Timothy Taylor or Courage Best and selected the former.

I assume Mrs SD must have taken a New Year’s resolution to be more adventurous as she chose a glass of Pinot Grigio rather than usual SB in the only size of glass she knows!

We had the SD Hound with us, fresh from a run on the beach, so took a seat at the other table near the roaring fire. Our new pal Chris continued to keep the fire blazing by regularly loading it with coal and logs, some days he even sets it up and lights it.

Frustration at wasting our time on three deserted hostelries was quickly forgotten when we were told lunch is served in The Bell until 2.30pm.

I ordered a steak and stilton baguette for £8.50 and ‘er indoors’ went for the sausage variety for £7.50 and, when questioned, chose to have fried onions added. They came with salad and were hot and delicious – apparently, keeping things in the family, chef Kirk, is barmaid Keira’s brother.

During lunch we were joined by another regular Martin, who ‘just happened to be passing’ while taking his seven-month-old Jack Russell Jed for a walk.

He was allowed to take a seat at Chris’ reserved table so the pair could indulge in their daily rant and robustly disagree about the best, and worst, local pubs.

Mrs SD was already running her eye down the dessert menu when I returned to the bar – this time I switched to the Courage Best and she reverted to type with a Sauvignon Blanc. The pint had a creamier head and was slightly fizzier than its predecessor, but didn’t have the same depth of taste as Timothy Taylor’s. The wine, I’m assured, was a very good drop.

By the time I returned with the drinks, a sweet selection had been made and a tarte tatin with ice cream, at a cost of £6, was on its way.

Not partaking, apart from a swift taster, I took the time to take a proper look round. As well as the two front rooms there is a large function/dining room behind the main bar at the back, right of the pub.

This room has been thoroughly renovated fairly recently and there is a screen on the back wall. There is also another, much smaller room on the left which is set aside for dining and has the classic ‘welcome to the madhouse’ sign sitting on the window seat. There’s also an illuminated feature wine store.

At the back of this room a small door leads to a narrow hallway and a side door to the garden, although the garden is currently closed and the hallway filled with Christmas decorations ahead of being stored away.

As well as traditional heavy beams there is plenty of feature wooden panelling and traditional furniture. The floors are reassuring higgledy-piggledy but make sure you mind your footing on the steps as well as your head going through the low doors.

During my travels I met the local flower man who was replacing several perfectly good looking bouquets with other perfectly good looking flowers. I’m clearly no expert on such matters as it had to be pointed out to me all the flowers are false and he is simply employed to rotate the different displays.

Pudding had been consumed by now and as the pub was closing we settled up and bid both the staff and regulars a fond farewell.

As we left I noticed the Sun Inn opposite was opening up spot on 3pm, just as The Bell was shutting up shop.

This co-ordinated approach from the village pubs makes more sense when you learn Sarah, who runs The Bell, snapped up the Sun Inn about 18 months ago and with her hands on the pair can make sure nothing is lost through ‘competition’ from across the road.

The Bell, The Street, St. Nicholas-at-Wade CT7 0NT

Decor: Exactly as it should be in a pub this old, with all this history – a wood-panelled entrance leads to a beamed bar with a roaring fire. All the floors are reassuringly uneven. ****

Drink: A duo of decent beers, the Timothy Taylor’s was better than the Courage but in an ideal world it would have been great to have had a third beer on offer. Mrs SD assured me both glasses of wine passed muster. ***

Price: The beers were both £4.80, both large wines, Pinot and Sauvignon were £7.50, the sarnies were £16 the pair and a pudding £6. **

Food: Compliments to the chef, the baguettes were both extremely tasty and fresh – I thought the tarte tatin was a touch rich, but Mrs SD says that with the vanilla ice cream it was lovely. ****

Staff: The barmaid was welcoming, smiley and attentive, although she didn’t want to be drawn into recommending the best beer – she left that to regular Chris. ****

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